Vintage
Radio & Test
Instrument
Restoration
3
IF Transformer
Repair
Updated 04/11/2021
The Information Published Here Is For The Noncommercial Use Of
Radio Hobbyists
All
credit is given to the author Paul E.
Pinyot 2013 and Radiomuseum.org for the information presented
here.
This is a pictorial
example of the procedure which I have used to repair intermediate
transformers in which the capacitors are suffering from silver
migration.
1) Start by identifying the
radio. Look for a model number on the chassis or cabinet, or if that is a no-go,
get the tube list, take a photo if possible, and post the tube info and radio
description on an antique radios "newsgroup" or "forum". Someone is sure to
help.
The idea is to get the values for the I.F.capacitors, and hopefully
from a schematic. If this is not possible, and if no-one is able to help with
identifying the values, then you're going to have measure the inductance of each
individual coil, and calculate the capacitance using formulas for capacitive and
inductive reactance at the I.F. frequency. Now that we've scared you to death
with the possibility of having to know the theory and math behind resonance,
have a look at the following mechanics of the
operation.
2) Identify the offending
transformer (this one looks suspicious) Usually this is done either by using a
modulated signal generator and your ear, or a signal generator and an
oscilloscope to trace backwards from the audio stage, until you pass a stage
where there is no more noise either audible or viewable on the scope. Typical
intermediate frequency transformer:
3) Be sure that you're
unsoldering the correct transformer, that it is indeed an IF transformer, and
don't get them backwards when you flip the chassis over ( this leads to
expressive language later!). The transformer bases are sometimes marked with one
or more coloured dots to identify what the connections are, and where they go.
If your schematic is not coded, or the transformer has no marks, it's a
good idea to mark the transformer, and your schematic, and possibly even the
chassis (for orientation) so as to make the reassembly easier. (Especially if
you have to wait a while for the capacitors, and have a tendancy to forget like
I do!)
IF xfrmr bottom side:
4) This next
photo is what the transformer looks like before it is pulled apart. Now for
those of you who take things literally, "pulling" is a relative term. "Gently
disassemble" is probably more accurate.
Note: the clip
is taken off before you remove the can from the chassis. It's true, I wouldn't
lie to you.
IF xfrmr out of chassis:
5) Following is the
transformer out of the can, but with the brass rivet still holding the parts of
the capacitors together. I've found that the best way to remove the rivet is
with a very sharp drill bit and light pressure, but high speed on the bit.
Others have had better success using a hot soldering iron to the melt the rivet
out of the plastic base plate. This method may be easier if you are not able to
drill cleanly and carefully. The soldering iron method involves putting the
round tip from a hot soldering iron into the hole in the rivet, and pushing
gently while the heat from the iron melts the plastic around the rivet.
The rivet will push up into the framework of the transformer, and then
can be picked off the soldering iron tip with a pair of needle-nose
pliers.
6) Here it is with
the rivet drilled out, and the plastic capacitor retainer plate removed. All
that is left are the two top contact strips, the mica spacer/insulator, and the
two lower contact strips (not visible under the mica).
Rivet drilled out - cover plate off
capacitor:
7) And once
again, this time with the mica out and both contact strips showing. Lots of
migration showing in this puppy! It was going to need a passport soon!! Maybe
even some unemployment insurance!
Capacitor mica removed:
8) To keep the
contact strips from touching, I curl them a bit. If the replacement caps
WON'T fit in the can, then I glue (hot or epoxy) the strips tight into place,
and solder the replacement caps onto the underside after the transformer is
reinstalled into the chassis. If the replacement caps DO fit in the transformer,
then..........see the next photo.
Ready
for new capacitor:
9) This is "any old
capacitor" which I used for the photo. It's now soldered into place and ready to
go back together. In your radio, make sure that you have the correct value.
You can test these transformers and capacitors out of the radio by putting an RF
signal of the correct frequency (obviously) through the primary coil, and
hooking your scopeacross the secondary using a detector probe. With this hookup,
you can verify that the circuit resonates properly, and you can also peak the
transformers before they go back into the radio.
New
capacitor soldered into place:
10) Here we
have the transformer with new capacitors installed and the assembly slid back
into the can, with the metal retaining tabs bent backinto
place.
IF xfrmr
assembled - ready to reinstall into chassis:
11) This
shows how the clip will attach to the transformer and hold it into the chassis.
It's probably a good idea to put the transformer into the chassis before
installing the clip! It's easier that way!
How
retainer clip fits:
Parts Needed:
42 Series
#425 40 – 200 PF Ceramic Trimmer Capacitors
85 – 100 PF 250V Ceramic Trimmer Capacitor
Bob Krueger,
AB7CQ
Web
Administrator
RPTR 1:
146.920/146.320 PL 123.0 (WIRES-X Room 28187)
RPTR 2:
444.600 / 449.600 PL 100 (LAN Linked)
Simplex IRLP
Node: 7515 PL114.8 (146.540)
Email: ab7cqradio@ebidpal.com
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